Ubud pavements

You only have to google these two words to come up with a host of results with phrases such as ‘death traps’ and ‘flat on her face’ sprinkled generously throughout tourist reports. It is a given that you must walk head down to be (pun alert!) one step ahead of any hazards. These range from […]

Where had all the orchids gone?

With a compound name like Pondok Anggrek (Orchid House, or rather ‘hut’ but that’s a quibble) any visitor to our place would expect to see some of these lovely flowers. It was the name we decided on after all, we didn’t inherit it. In the early days we purchased orchids at every opportunity, and for […]

Cremation in Ubud

The village farewelled 29 of its own last Thursday in the usual spectacular fashion of ngaben ceremonies. Preparations had been going on for a month and nobody slept the night before as the Pedanda (High Priest) led prayers and chanting throughout the early hours for the safe journey of the souls of the departed. It […]

Kite season in Bali

At first it was just a small tap on the metal gate to our compound. Then a bit louder and a whispered ‘Ibu?’. Whoever it was peeked through the latch, reluctant to push the unlocked gate. Not somebody we knew then. Investigation revealed two very muddy teenage boys pointing to the overhead wires and their […]