Saturdays seem to come round very quickly here, which is good as this is Bali breakfast morning for us. On every other day breakfast is muesli, but Saturdays are special. Ayu scours the street stalls early and by 7am has brought us up to 10 little packets wrapped in banana leaves and brown paper. The parcels vary slightly each week, but there is always bubur, a delicious fragrant rice, sprinkled with spices, vegetables and nuts. The Rp100.000 (close enough to $10) I give her each Friday not only provides us with delicacies for the next few days, it covers breakfast for her and her family and a sweet treat for Bapak that he can enjoy without testing his few aged teeth too much.

We open the packages not quite sure what will be tucked in there. Nearly always we find laklak, sweet little Balinese cakes, coloured green with pandan juice, cooked on an open griddle and sprinkled with coconut and palm sugar. We aren’t too worried that we have no choice but to eat these quickly as they can become a bit rubbery if left too long. Delicious with coffee after the spicy bubur. There might be black rice, or a sweet pumpkin and rice mix, or sumsum, also pandanus green, and similar to custard. Like custard, it is good eaten either hot or cold. All have added palm sugar and coconut, an addictive combination. What’s left after a filling breakfast goes into the fridge to be enjoyed over the next few days.

Perhaps we have developed strong constitutions, but we are never bothered by eating street food. Babi guling (spicy roast pork), es kelapa muda (young coconut water with shreds of soft coconut flesh) and es cendol (coloured jellies and coconut shreds, half drink, half dessert) are other favourites.

Spicy or sweet, Balinese food is delicious. The palm sugar / coconut combination is not too good for the waistline, but we are happy to indulge just this once (a week).

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